Sell Your Watch
Sell your Rolex for what it is actually worth.
Rolex is the most liquid thing in watches, which cuts both ways. It means I can price your watch quickly and confidently. It also means plenty of buyers know they can lowball you and someone will still say yes. I would rather show you the range and the reasoning.
What I Look At
What actually moves the number.
The reference does most of the work
Two Rolexes from the same year and the same family can sit a long way apart. The reference number on your papers, or between the lugs, is the first thing I ask for because it narrows the estimate more than anything else you can tell me.
Originality over condition
An honest watch with wear is worth more than a tidy one with a replaced dial or an aftermarket bezel insert. Service parts are normal and fine. Refinishing that has softened the case lines is not, and I will tell you if I see it.
Box and papers help, on some more than others
On steel sports models they matter a great deal. On many others they are worth having and not worth agonising over. I will tell you what they are worth in your specific case rather than in general.
The Lineup
Rolex models I buy most often.
This is not an exhaustive list. If yours is not on it, ask anyway. My working floor is around 10,000 dollars, with exceptions for exceptional pieces.
Questions
What people ask me about Rolex.
Where do I find my reference number?
On the paperwork if you have it. On the watch it is engraved between the lugs at twelve o'clock, underneath the bracelet, so you need to unclip the bracelet or slide it aside to read it. If that sounds fiddly, send me clear photos of the dial, the caseback and the clasp and I can usually identify it myself.
Does a service history help?
Yes, and a recent Rolex service is worth mentioning. It does not usually move the number as much as people expect, but it removes uncertainty, and uncertainty is what makes a buyer quote low.
My watch has aftermarket diamonds. Will you still buy it?
Often yes, but be prepared for it to price below the same reference in original condition. Aftermarket stone setting almost always costs more value than it adds, because the next owner has to price in returning it to original.
Is the first number the number I actually get?
It is an estimate and I say so every time. I give you a range from the reference, the condition you describe, and what the market is doing that week. Once the watch is in my hands and authenticated, I confirm the final number. If it moves, I tell you exactly what moved it.
What if I do not like the final offer?
I ship it back to you, insured, at my cost. No obligation and no fee. That is the whole reason I would rather give you an honest range up front than a flattering one.
How do I get paid?
Wire transfer, sent the same day we agree on the final number. I confirm your banking details with you on a second channel before anything moves.
Ready When You Are
Send me the reference and a few photos.
I will come back with a range and the reasoning behind it. Every number is an estimate until I authenticate the watch in hand.
Text 404-590-5059