Insured shipping both ways · Authenticated in house · Same-day wire on accepted offers · Call or text 404-590-5059

Sell Your Watch

Sell your Rolex Daytona.

The Daytona is the reference where the gap between a careful buyer and a careless one is largest in absolute terms. It is also the one where the most confident wrong numbers get quoted. Take your time on this one.

What I Look At

What actually moves the number.

01

Generation before anything else

The manual-wind era, the Zenith era, the in-house era, and the ceramic bezel era are four different markets. Establishing which one your watch belongs to comes before any number.

02

Dial variants are the detail that pays

Small differences in printing, subdial colour, and text layout separate common examples from genuinely scarce ones. This is the family where sending me good photographs is worth real money to you.

03

Complete sets matter here

Original box, papers, and any accessories are worth more on a Daytona than on almost anything else I buy. If you have them, gather them before you get an estimate.

References

Rolex Daytona references I buy.

This is not an exhaustive list. If yours is not on it, ask anyway. My working floor is around 10,000 dollars, with exceptions for exceptional pieces.

126500LNCurrent ceramic
116500LNPrevious ceramic
116520Steel bezel in-house
16520Zenith movement
116515LNEverose Oysterflex
116518LNYellow gold Oysterflex
Insured
Door to door, both directions, on me
In house
I authenticate every watch myself
Same day
Wire on accepted offers
No fee
Decline and it ships back at my cost

Questions

What people ask me about Rolex Daytona.

Should I get it serviced before selling?

Usually not. A service rarely returns what it costs when you are selling to a dealer who has the watch serviced anyway. Spend the money only if the chronograph does not run, and even then talk to me first.

Is the first number the number I actually get?

It is an estimate and I say so every time. I give you a range from the reference, the condition you describe, and what the market is doing that week. Once the watch is in my hands and authenticated, I confirm the final number. If it moves, I tell you exactly what moved it.

What if I do not like the final offer?

I ship it back to you, insured, at my cost. No obligation and no fee. That is the whole reason I would rather give you an honest range up front than a flattering one.

How do I get paid?

Wire transfer, sent the same day we agree on the final number. I confirm your banking details with you on a second channel before anything moves.

Ready When You Are

Send me the reference and a few photos.

I will come back with a range and the reasoning behind it. Every number is an estimate until I authenticate the watch in hand.

Text 404-590-5059
Text Zach