Sell Your Watch
Sell your Patek Philippe without guessing.
Patek is where the spread between a careless valuation and a careful one gets widest. Complications, dial variants, and the exact production period all move the number in ways a generic buyer will not account for. This is a conversation, not a form.
What I Look At
What actually moves the number.
The complication is the asset
A perpetual calendar, a split-seconds chronograph, and a time-only Calatrava are three different markets that happen to share a name on the dial. I price the movement and the reference, not the badge.
The Extract from the Archives matters
If you have one, it settles questions that would otherwise cost you money in the estimate. If you do not, that is not a problem, but it is worth knowing that it can be requested from Patek and that it takes time.
Dial originality is the whole ballgame
On vintage references especially, a redialled or restored dial changes what the watch is. I would far rather buy an original dial with honest age than a refinished one that looks new in photographs.
The Lineup
Patek Philippe models I buy most often.
This is not an exhaustive list. If yours is not on it, ask anyway. My working floor is around 10,000 dollars, with exceptions for exceptional pieces.
Questions
What people ask me about Patek Philippe.
Do I need the certificate of origin?
It helps, and on recent sport references it helps a lot. Without it the watch is still very saleable, it just carries more of its value in the watch itself and less in the completeness of the set.
The watch has never been serviced. Is that bad?
Not necessarily, and on a vintage piece an unserviced original can be preferable to one that has been over-restored. Tell me and I will factor it in honestly rather than using it as a reason to drop the number.
Is the first number the number I actually get?
It is an estimate and I say so every time. I give you a range from the reference, the condition you describe, and what the market is doing that week. Once the watch is in my hands and authenticated, I confirm the final number. If it moves, I tell you exactly what moved it.
What if I do not like the final offer?
I ship it back to you, insured, at my cost. No obligation and no fee. That is the whole reason I would rather give you an honest range up front than a flattering one.
How do I get paid?
Wire transfer, sent the same day we agree on the final number. I confirm your banking details with you on a second channel before anything moves.
Ready When You Are
Send me the reference and a few photos.
I will come back with a range and the reasoning behind it. Every number is an estimate until I authenticate the watch in hand.
Text 404-590-5059